Is It More Than “Old Book Smell”?

We all know that aroma. Perhaps it evokes trips to the library as a child, or the cozy ambience of a grandfather’s study. It’s the distinctive scent of old books.

The Science behind the Scent

Scientists say that “old book smell” is more than just mustiness; it contains hints of grass and vanilla.  That’s because all the compounds used to make the book release distinctive odors as they break down. For example, lignin, which is present in all wood-based paper, is closely related to vanillin. As it breaks down, the lignin grants old books that faint vanilla scent.

It’s even possible to approximate the age of a book based on its smell. Chemists have identified 15 substances often present in books (known as VOC’s) that degrade (and therefore emit a gas) at a predictable rate.  The researcher behind the project, Matija Strlic of University College London’s Centre for Sustainable Heritage, was inspired to investigate when he saw a conservator sniffing paper to assess its quality. Chemist Lorraine Gibson has taken Strlic’s research further, and is working on a test to help experts date books and other paper materials based on the VOC breakdown.

Banishing Other Odors from the Library

But what if a book has a stronger (and less pleasant) odor? Cookbooks, for instance, may smell of food if they’ve been stored in the kitchen. Other scents that may creep into your pages include tobacco or nicotine. Poor air circulation—along with the resulting mold and mildew—are also frequent culprits of malodorous pages.

While an unappealing smell doesn’t directly impact the value of a rare book, it can decrease your enjoyment of that book. If that’s the case, have hope! With these tips from the Dartmouth College Library, you can rid your volumes of unwanted odor:

  • Find a container large enough to hold your book, and another larger container with a lid. A garbage can and a plastic crate work well. Just be sure that the containers have never been used for food or liquid.
  • Place an odor-absorbing material (like baking soda, charcoal briquettes, or even kitty litter) in the larger container.
  • Gently open your book and place it flat inside the container. If you’re doing multiple books at once, you can also leave the books upright, with the pages slightly fanned out.
  • Put the smaller container inside the larger one, and close the lid of the larger container.
  • Check the book after several days. If the book still stinks, close it up again. If the offending smell has dissipated, put the book back in your library.

And a word about your library: it’s necessary to take a few precautions to keep the smell from returning. Be sure that the air circulates well in your library, and control both temperature and humidity.  Gently dust your books on a regular basis, as dirt and other buildup can encourage the growth of mold and mildew.

1 comment November 23rd, 2011

Sunning: Bad for Your Skin, Bad for Your Books!

Summer has officially arrived, and along with all that sun comes the joy of summer reading! But the sun can cause irreversible damage to your skin—and your books. It’s important to protect your rare and collectible books from heat, humidity, and sunning.

Sunning occurs when books are exposed to light. Although the UV rays of sunlight are by far the most harmful, any kind of light can cause damage. Light triggers chemical changes in paper, leather, and cloth, resulting in deterioration. Signs of sunning include the following:

  • Bleaching of paper
  • Discoloration of paper (usually yellowing or browning)
  • Color changes in leather
  • Fading of fabric

Over time, the pages, cover, and dust jacket may become brittle or delicate due to breakdown in the fibers. This chemical reaction continues even after the book has been removed from the sun, although at a much slower pace. Spines are particularly susceptible to damage because they are the most frequently sunlight-exposed parts of the book.

To preserve your investment in rare books, it’s important to store your books properly.  Unfortunately we’ve seen many collections that have been virtually destroyed by sun, with dust jacket damage from lightly faded to virtually burned through, cloth spine and edges being faded as well.

Total dark storage is ideal for preservation, but this isn’t a practical option—after all, you want to enjoy your collection! Instead, store your books and paper out of direct sunlight.

  • Choose a room/library that receives minimal direct sunlight or has small, no, or UV protected windows. One caveat: basements and attics certainly restrict light, but they may also expose books to moisture or extreme temperatures.
  • Avoid using unshielded fluorescent lights where you store your books.
  • If possible, use a UV filtering product such as UF-3 Plexiglass or Acrylite OP-2 on windows and fixtures.
  • Apply dust-jacket protectors with modern first editions.  Archival dust-jacket protectors have built-in UV protection and provide at least a basic level of sunlight protection to the dust jackets.

So this summer, enjoy books at the beach, but leave your collectible books at home! Protecting them from the sun will increase their longevity and also protect their value.

2 comments June 15th, 2011

Q & A with Bruce Levy

This week we are happy to welcome Bruce Levy, a renowned book conservator. Since 1980, Bruce has worked with high-end rare book dealers, collectors, and institutions throughout the United States.

Q: Tell us a little about what a book conservator does.

A: A book conservator is someone who works to preserve and/or repair damaged books, usually rare books. I work with rare book dealers, collectors, and academic institutions. Our goal, stated loosely, is always to return the book as close to the original state as possible. In some cases (especially early books) original structural elements may be as important as the text itself. Written, and sometimes photo-documentation are always included with treatment to allow future conservators, curators, and owners to be able to make subsequent treatment decisions from a point of knowledge of past treatments.

Q: What are some of the most common repairs you’re asked to make?

A: Most damage is caused by mishandling. Treatment can address the binding, the text block and sometimes both. The spine or tail of the book might need repair, the joints and hinges might be weak or broken, or the boards (the covers) may be detached completely. Corners also take a beating and may need some TLC. Text block treatments can be as minor as torn leaf repairs or as major as complete text washing, deacidification, repair and re-sewing. Binding repair can be as simple as japanese paper repairs of small splits of binding material, and repair and consolidation of exposed, delaminating board corners, or be as extensive as complete binding restoration, retaining all possible original material.

Q: How do you decide which materials to use when you restore a book?

A: I always strive to match the new material to the old as closely as possible. Granted, wear and aging sometimes make it impossible to achieve a perfect match, but the repairs should be as unobtrusive as possible. A skilled craftsman should be able to provide adequately strong, appropriate and often virtually invisible repairs that are sympathetic to the original “book as object.”

Q: Do you ever tell someone that a book is not worth repairing?

A: In some cases, the cost of restoration might exceed the value of the book, so a dealer might not be interested in doing that, but private collectors and institutions may have other motives and criteria for preserving their books. University libraries, for instance, may have pieces that simply cannot be replaced, so proper conservation is critical. “Intrinsic value” varies significantly with the owner, institution, collector, or dealer, so it’s important for the conservator and client to understand and communicate clearly so the proper treatment options are presented and decided on.

Q: What do you wish people knew about caring for rare books?

A: It’s all about proper handling and climate control. Although collectors might not be able to use book preservation technologies like dew point calculators or specialized HVAC systems, they can be sure to store their books in a cool, dry place, away from sun exposure. And handling your rare books gently will certainly extend the life of their spines, joints, and bindings.

Bruce will be blogging with us quarterly. Check back soon for insights on book preservation, advances in conservation, and more. Visit him at Biblio.com or reach him via email at levybooks@email.com.

 

Add comment June 8th, 2011

Q & A with Sean Richards

This week we introduce Sean E. Richards, of Byzantium Studios, Limited. Sean is a true craftsman who specializes in book restoration and conservation. He combines modern conservation methods with traditional techniques to deliver superior results.

Q: What sparked your love of rare books and book binding?

A: I grew up accompanying my parents on weekend “antiquing” trips. One Saturday I uncovered a 1790 copy of The Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy, Gentleman. That same week, I received a catalog of rare books thanks to a mistake at the post office. From then on, I was hooked. I spent my days conducting “book autopsies,” taking apart books to see how they were assembled.

Q: Tell us a little about one of you favorite projects.

A: The University of Oklahoma invited me to restore a 1610 copy of Galileo Galilei’s Sidereus nuncius—signed by Galileo himself! The library shied away from discussing the books cost, classifying it only as “irreplaceable.” But it has since been valued at over $2 million. I worked on the book at a makeshift workshop in the library, over about two weeks. Even though I was confident in the quality and precision of my work, the project was extremely challenging and gained a lot of attention. It was invigorating to complete a project of such magnitude.

Q: When should a collector consider rebinding or restoring a book?

A: First it’s important to think about the potential value of the book. A $50 book probably doesn’t merit extensive restoration, since repairing the book probably won’t add significant value—or any at all. The exception is if the book has personal value.

Ultimately, restoring a book often enhances its value, makes it more usable, and ensures that you’ll be able to pass it down to future generations if desired. If any of these is a concern, then restoring or rebinding the book is the best choice.

Q: How does restoring or rebinding affect a book’s value?

A: That depends on the quality of the restoration or rebinding. A cheap library binding will most certainly decrease the value of a book. On the other hand, if the binding is totally missing, then replacing it with one close to the original will naturally add to the book’s value. A first-rate book preservationist can create an authentic looking replica binding and provide a record of all work done.

Q: What should rare book collectors look for when choosing someone to restore their books?

A: Book restoration really is an art form. Look for someone who can provide samples of work and references—after all, this person will be handling some of your most cherished investments. Ask about the materials and tools to be used. And remember that an exceptional restoration may cost more than the relative value of the book. But a first-rate job will more than pay for itself in the long run.

If you have other questions about book binding, preservation, or conservation, Sean welcomes your inquiries. Contact him via his website.

Add comment May 11th, 2011

Book Collecting Basics: Can I Read My Rare Book?

The short answer not only is yes, you can. It is, yes you should.

Of course you’ve also heard that “condition is everything,” so how can you maintain your book’s condition and still enjoy reading it?  Both should be achievable objectives.

As you’ve invested time and money in rare books, first editions, or signed books, you’ll want to do everything you can to protect their value. At the same time, passionate, “true” collectors are most knowledgeable about the content of the books, the bindings, dust-wrappers, etc. in their collection.

So how do we go about handling the books in our collection:

  • Remove the shrink wrap: If you have obtained a (leather-bound or other) book in shrink-wrap, either by the publisher or seller, the recommendation is to remove the shrink wrap.  Depending on the type of shrink wrap (archival quality), the shrink-wrap might actually be harmful to book and binding.  In either case though, the lack of oxygen can have deteriorating effects on binding and books, especially leather.
  • Take off the shelf with care: Protect the book binding. To retrieve a rare book from the shelf, push the neighboring books in and grab the book you’d like in the center of the spine. Do not pull it out at the top of the spine.
  • Be gentle: Open a collectible book only as far as it wants to go.  Don’t “crack open” the binding.
  • Get a bookmark: Of course, no “dog ears” (fold down) to pages of the book.   A thin and soft bookmark won’t impact pages or binding. Better yet, write down your page number on a separate sheet.
  • Protect the dust jacket: Dust wrappers are meant to protect your book, but as such, they are often the first to experience damage.  See the earlier blog on protecting dust-jackets.
  • Avoid sunning: We’ve seen more than one example where exposure to direct sunlight has virtually destroyed the financial value of a library by fading and bleaching out books’ dust-jackets and bindings.  In short, books and documents should not be exposed to direct sunlight.  A proper reading room or library is equipped with the appropriate shutters and/or UV light protection.

As even slight wear and tear can drastically impact a book’s value, you do want to play it safe and maximize your precautions when handling and studying your book.  After all, a collection of substantial publications is a significant contribution to safeguarding human heritage and preserving it for future generations.

Further Reading:

National Library of Scotland

Related Posts:

Book Collecting Basics: Ditch the Dust Jacket?

2 comments April 13th, 2011

Book Collecting Basics: Ditch the Dust Jacket?

If you’ve ever purchased a hardcover book, you’re probably familiar with the dust jacket or, depending on which side of the pond you are, the dust-wrapper. Indeed, they’ve been around since the 1820’s! These paper coverings are designed to protect a book’s cloth cover as the book travels from the publisher to your bookshelf.

Continue Reading 1 comment March 30th, 2011