If you’ve chosen a theme or focus for your rare book collection, eventually you’ll want to move beyond only books and collect related items. These may include magazines, posters, or other paper objects. Known as ephemera, these items can add depth, interest, and value to a personal collection.
The Ephemera Society of America defines “ephemera” as everyday documents created for single or short-term use: think newspapers, flyers, bookmarks, and even matchbooks. Generally made of paper or other less expensive materials, ephemera weren’t designed to stand the test of time; they require careful preservation as part of your rare book collection.
You may discover ephemera serendipitously, among the pages of your rare books. Common finds include pressed flowers, letters, and bookmarks. If your rare book is an association copy, the ephemera could actually add more value—don’t discard it! A few suggestions for maintaining ephemera found in your rare books:
- If you find an item of ephemera in an association copy, leave it where it is if possible. Document where the item is located in the book.
- Isolate items from the book’s pages with acid-free tissue or a Mylar envelope. That will protect both items from chemical damage.
- Some items are thick enough that they may damage the book’s spine if left in place. If that’s the case, remove the item, document its location, and preserve the item as appropriate.
Meanwhile, many collectors find that they want to bring exceptional depth to their already-focused collections. For instance, if you’ve built a collection around Edgar Rice Burroughs’ Tarzan series, the 40th-anniversary issue of Argosy All-Story Weekly would complement your collection wonderfully; it features artwork and mention of Tarzan of the Apes. Just as rare books require special care, so do your ephemera.
- Store items in containers and tissue made from acid- and lignin-free materials. No plastic!
- When storing items flat, stack items largest to smallest. Place acid-free tissue between items.
- You can also use archival manuscript boxes, to store items upright in folders.
- When the manuscript box isn’t completely full, place a stabilizer in the box to keep items from leaning or slouching.
- If items are displayed, use archive-quality materials for encasement.
- Protect your ephemera from UV light, especially sunlight.
- When labeling items, use pencil and write on the acid-free paper around your item. That way no ink can bleed through.
- Larger ephemera can be rolled into an archival core and secured with string.
If you have questions about preserving your ephemera, it’s best to ask an experienced preservationist. To enhance your collection with ephemera, consider a subject-specific bibliography that includes related ephemera.
March 29th, 2012
As a collector of rare books, your goal is to keep your collection in optimum shape. You’re careful with dust jackets and protect fragile books with clamshell cases. Even the way you shelve your rare books can impact their condition. It’s important that your home library provides the support and protection that rare books need.
Umberto Eco could use a few of these tips in his personal library!
Building Your Library from the Ground Up
Serious collectors know not to let their rare books come into contact with just any old paper, as paper can contain harmful chemicals and acids. But what about the shelves themselves? We often assume that any bookshelf is fine for our books, but choosing the right shelving materials will help you preserve your books even more effectively:
- Institutional libraries don’t use metal shelves because they’re less expensive. The ideal material for shelves themselves is actually metal, coated with a baked enamel finish.
- If metal shelves aren’t an option, coat your wooden shelves with a proper sealant to prevent acids from seeping into your books from the wood. The best options are a water-based aliphatic urethane or a clear two-coat epoxy finish.
- Wood dries out as it ages, and the chemicals often used to treat wood also dissipate over time. If your books are housed in an extremely old wooden bookcase, they’re likely safe from damage.
- In locations with high humidity, consider ventilated shelving. The additional air circulation can help prevent the growth of mold and mildew.
Storing Rare Books Properly
It’s important to store rare books with care; rubbing, pulling, and pushing can all cause unnecessary damage and decrease the value of rare books and manuscripts. It’s easy to simply place books on the shelves straight up and down, but that isn’t always the best position for your books.
- Avoid letting books slouch on the shelf. Any book with a spine wider than three inches, or taller than 18 inches, should be laid flat. The bindings of these books sometimes cannot support the spine, weakening the spine, warping the covers, and damaging the pages.
- Do not stack these books more than three volumes high. Too much weight can warp the covers of the lower books.
- Give your books a little space to breathe on the shelf. They should be close enough to support each other, but not packed so tightly that the bindings are abraded when you remove a book.
- If you use bookends, make sure they are tall enough that your books don’t lean over the top of the bookends. The weight of the book against the bookend can cause damage to the cover.
- Tall books that are shelved next to short books tend to get warped and deformed over time. Shelve books by size whenever possible.
Using the right materials and shelving techniques can make all the difference in maintaining the value of your rare book collection.
Related Posts:
Win the Battle against the Bookworm
Is It More than “Old Book Smell”?
How to Prevent and Reverse Foxing in Old Books
February 15th, 2012
Mother Nature can wreak havoc on rare books. Sunning, water damage, and humidity can all cause damage to your collection. Another enemy of your books may also be lurking on your shelves: the dreaded bookworm. They’ll tunnel right into the block, riddling the book with countless gullies and channels.
Bookworms aren’t really worms—they’re actually the larvae of several species of beetles. While these insects don’t generally attack modern books, they pose a significant threat to antiquarian books. The critters seem particularly fond of the glues used on the backs of older books, particularly those of Italian provenance. From the backs of the books, the insects often move on to the block, munching right through the pages.
You may have seen the telltale signs of bookworms: fine dust falling from between the pages when you open up a favorite volume, or tiny piles of paper dust on your shelves. These insects also don’t stop munching when they’re done with your favorite tomes. They may also feast on your bookshelves. A few simple steps will help keep your library pest free:
- Keep food away from your books! I love a good snack while reading just as much as the next person, but crumbs in books attract all kinds of insects.
- Use camphor or naphthalene as a deterrent. You can soak linen in either, and place it on the bookshelf. Re-soak the fabric whenever the scent fades.
- Some experts recommend sprinkling fine pepper along the edges of the bookshelf, though Keating’s Insect Powder might be an equally effective alternative.
- Don’t use pesticide or plastic wrapping on your rare books without first consulting a professional.
- Maintain optimum humidity levels in your library. High moisture levels can attract insects.
If insects have struck your rare books, it’s important to act fast if you want to prevent further damage. To kill existing insects, place the book in a bag with a cloth soaked in ether. Repeat every two weeks for a few months to kill any other larvae that may have hatched.
If insects have damaged the boards of your book, talk to a professional book binder about your options. The boards may require replacement. This is often the best course of action, since the old boards may still contain insect eggs. A qualified book binder will be able to assess the damage and suggest multiple options for repair.
After investing in rebinding and repair, you may want to consider a clamshell case for your book. Made to precisely fit each book, clamshell cases offer extra protection from dust and moisture.
November 30th, 2011
We all know that aroma. Perhaps it evokes trips to the library as a child, or the cozy ambience of a grandfather’s study. It’s the distinctive scent of old books.
The Science behind the Scent
Scientists say that “old book smell” is more than just mustiness; it contains hints of grass and vanilla. That’s because all the compounds used to make the book release distinctive odors as they break down. For example, lignin, which is present in all wood-based paper, is closely related to vanillin. As it breaks down, the lignin grants old books that faint vanilla scent.
It’s even possible to approximate the age of a book based on its smell. Chemists have identified 15 substances often present in books (known as VOC’s) that degrade (and therefore emit a gas) at a predictable rate. The researcher behind the project, Matija Strlic of University College London’s Centre for Sustainable Heritage, was inspired to investigate when he saw a conservator sniffing paper to assess its quality. Chemist Lorraine Gibson has taken Strlic’s research further, and is working on a test to help experts date books and other paper materials based on the VOC breakdown.
Banishing Other Odors from the Library
But what if a book has a stronger (and less pleasant) odor? Cookbooks, for instance, may smell of food if they’ve been stored in the kitchen. Other scents that may creep into your pages include tobacco or nicotine. Poor air circulation—along with the resulting mold and mildew—are also frequent culprits of malodorous pages.
While an unappealing smell doesn’t directly impact the value of a rare book, it can decrease your enjoyment of that book. If that’s the case, have hope! With these tips from the Dartmouth College Library, you can rid your volumes of unwanted odor:
- Find a container large enough to hold your book, and another larger container with a lid. A garbage can and a plastic crate work well. Just be sure that the containers have never been used for food or liquid.
- Place an odor-absorbing material (like baking soda, charcoal briquettes, or even kitty litter) in the larger container.
- Gently open your book and place it flat inside the container. If you’re doing multiple books at once, you can also leave the books upright, with the pages slightly fanned out.
- Put the smaller container inside the larger one, and close the lid of the larger container.
- Check the book after several days. If the book still stinks, close it up again. If the offending smell has dissipated, put the book back in your library.
And a word about your library: it’s necessary to take a few precautions to keep the smell from returning. Be sure that the air circulates well in your library, and control both temperature and humidity. Gently dust your books on a regular basis, as dirt and other buildup can encourage the growth of mold and mildew.
November 23rd, 2011
By Sean Richards
Byzantium Studios
When you think of conservation and preservation, you may think of the environment. But for rare book collectors, conservation and preservation are the key to maintaining—and sometimes even increasing—the value of your prized investments.
Preservation Prevents Further Damage
Although conservation and preservation may sound like they refer to the same thing, the two terms differ significantly. When a book is preserved, it is simply protected from further damage. When someone wants a book preserved, I’ll often build a box to protect the book from the sun, air, and other environmental factors that can cause deterioration. A preservationist’s priority is the same as a doctor’s: do no harm. Preservation alone doesn’t alter the book in any way.
Conservation, however, requires a little more on chemistry to stabilize a book’s condition. A conservationist might, for instance, work on deacidifying a rare book, or use pigment dyes instead of chemical dyes to color materials used in repair. Conservationists may also alter the structure of the book to protect it from further damage over the long term.
What about Restoration?
Now if you want to return a book to its former glory, you want restoration. Restoring a book means using original materials and historic techniques to make the book look like it did when it was new—even if that was 200 years ago. Not all restorationists are familiar with conservation or preservation, so it’s important to choose someone who is not only familiar with period binding methods, but also understands how to protect your investment in the future.
A period binding should preserve the bibliographical value and integrity of the book.
Does restoring, preserving, or conserving a book improve its value? That all depends on the book, and the kind of work you have done. Regardless of whether you’re looking for conservation or restoration, you’ll want to choose a book binder who is proficient in both modern techniques and those that were used during the time period and in the geographical provenance of your book. The methods used to create, say, a 15th-century exposed board binding are very different from the ones used to create an ornate Victorian binding.
Factors to Consider
Any changes to the condition of an antiquarian book can significantly impact its value. That’s why it’s critical to consider all your options before commissioning preservation, conservation, or restoration work. Before you do either, think about these factors:
- What is the book’s value as-is?
- How will the book be used?
- Will you resell the book?
Once you’ve invested in conserving and restoring your collection, it makes sense to preserve them as well. Many collectors opt for a multi-pronged approach to maintaining their collection; they may ask me to restore or rebind a book—and to create a box to protect it.
If you have questions about preserving, restoring, or conserving your rare book collection, feel free to contact me via byzantium@sbcglobal.net or 405-329-6947.
September 21st, 2011
As the Northeast dries out after Hurricane Irene, now’s a good time to think about the effects of moisture and humidity on rare books. Just as too much sun can damage your rare books, so can too much moisture.
And we’re not just talking about direct moisture, such as liquid spills. The relative humidity of the air is also a concern. Excess humidity (usually relative humidity above 75%) can encourage the growth of fungi and mildew, which can lead to foxing.
Foxing is the name for the splotches, spots and specks you often see on older books. It’s rare to find a book from the eighteenth or nineteenth century that doesn’t show signs of foxing, and some modern books may also be foxed.
Tips to Prevent Foxing
The best way to prevent initial or further foxing on your rare books is to store them properly. Books should be kept in a cool, dry place. Libraries and museums maintain a relative humidity of 50%, which halts foxing altogether. At home, use the following techniques:
- Store your books thoughtfully. Keep them in a room that has central air conditioning and heat.
- Outfit your library with a humidity meter. Digital versions are reliable and affordable.
- If you live in a relatively humid area, consider using a dehumidifier.
- Always use acid-free paper if wrapping, packing, or mounting rare books and ephemera. Foxing changes the pH of the paper, and additional acid can cause further degradation.
Strategies to Remove Foxing
Removing the marks of foxing should generally be left to a skilled book conservator or preservationist. Experts may choose one of two approaches to reverse foxing:
- Using a reducing agent, such as sodium borohydride, on the paper. These agents are mild enough that they don’t have to be rinsed from the paper after treatment, but they may not remove the marks completely.
- Treating the paper with an oxidizing agent like sodium tetraborate. Slightly stronger than reducing agents, oxidizing agents must be washed out of the paper after treatment.
The strength of the agent used depends on the weight of the book’s paper, so the chemicals must be mixed and applied properly. You’ll find that most rare booksellers opt to leave foxing along and simply strive to prevent further damage.
It’s also important to look for signs that foxing has been removed with bleach, which will cause the paper to degrade more quickly over time. Bleach treatment may cause page wrinkling and ink bleeding.
Many collectors see foxing as a lovely, desirable part of a rare book’s patina. What’s your take?
Sources
The Bookologist, CoOL Conservation, NYU Library, Period Fine Binding
August 31st, 2011
Summer has officially arrived, and along with all that sun comes the joy of summer reading! But the sun can cause irreversible damage to your skin—and your books. It’s important to protect your rare and collectible books from heat, humidity, and sunning.
Sunning occurs when books are exposed to light. Although the UV rays of sunlight are by far the most harmful, any kind of light can cause damage. Light triggers chemical changes in paper, leather, and cloth, resulting in deterioration. Signs of sunning include the following:
- Bleaching of paper
- Discoloration of paper (usually yellowing or browning)
- Color changes in leather
- Fading of fabric
Over time, the pages, cover, and dust jacket may become brittle or delicate due to breakdown in the fibers. This chemical reaction continues even after the book has been removed from the sun, although at a much slower pace. Spines are particularly susceptible to damage because they are the most frequently sunlight-exposed parts of the book.
To preserve your investment in rare books, it’s important to store your books properly. Unfortunately we’ve seen many collections that have been virtually destroyed by sun, with dust jacket damage from lightly faded to virtually burned through, cloth spine and edges being faded as well.
Total dark storage is ideal for preservation, but this isn’t a practical option—after all, you want to enjoy your collection! Instead, store your books and paper out of direct sunlight.
- Choose a room/library that receives minimal direct sunlight or has small, no, or UV protected windows. One caveat: basements and attics certainly restrict light, but they may also expose books to moisture or extreme temperatures.
- Avoid using unshielded fluorescent lights where you store your books.
- If possible, use a UV filtering product such as UF-3 Plexiglass or Acrylite OP-2 on windows and fixtures.
- Apply dust-jacket protectors with modern first editions. Archival dust-jacket protectors have built-in UV protection and provide at least a basic level of sunlight protection to the dust jackets.
So this summer, enjoy books at the beach, but leave your collectible books at home! Protecting them from the sun will increase their longevity and also protect their value.
June 15th, 2011
This week we are happy to welcome Bruce Levy, a renowned book conservator. Since 1980, Bruce has worked with high-end rare book dealers, collectors, and institutions throughout the United States.
Q: Tell us a little about what a book conservator does.
A: A book conservator is someone who works to preserve and/or repair damaged books, usually rare books. I work with rare book dealers, collectors, and academic institutions. Our goal, stated loosely, is always to return the book as close to the original state as possible. In some cases (especially early books) original structural elements may be as important as the text itself. Written, and sometimes photo-documentation are always included with treatment to allow future conservators, curators, and owners to be able to make subsequent treatment decisions from a point of knowledge of past treatments.
Q: What are some of the most common repairs you’re asked to make?
A: Most damage is caused by mishandling. Treatment can address the binding, the text block and sometimes both. The spine or tail of the book might need repair, the joints and hinges might be weak or broken, or the boards (the covers) may be detached completely. Corners also take a beating and may need some TLC. Text block treatments can be as minor as torn leaf repairs or as major as complete text washing, deacidification, repair and re-sewing. Binding repair can be as simple as japanese paper repairs of small splits of binding material, and repair and consolidation of exposed, delaminating board corners, or be as extensive as complete binding restoration, retaining all possible original material.
Q: How do you decide which materials to use when you restore a book?
A: I always strive to match the new material to the old as closely as possible. Granted, wear and aging sometimes make it impossible to achieve a perfect match, but the repairs should be as unobtrusive as possible. A skilled craftsman should be able to provide adequately strong, appropriate and often virtually invisible repairs that are sympathetic to the original “book as object.”
Q: Do you ever tell someone that a book is not worth repairing?
A: In some cases, the cost of restoration might exceed the value of the book, so a dealer might not be interested in doing that, but private collectors and institutions may have other motives and criteria for preserving their books. University libraries, for instance, may have pieces that simply cannot be replaced, so proper conservation is critical. “Intrinsic value” varies significantly with the owner, institution, collector, or dealer, so it’s important for the conservator and client to understand and communicate clearly so the proper treatment options are presented and decided on.
Q: What do you wish people knew about caring for rare books?
A: It’s all about proper handling and climate control. Although collectors might not be able to use book preservation technologies like dew point calculators or specialized HVAC systems, they can be sure to store their books in a cool, dry place, away from sun exposure. And handling your rare books gently will certainly extend the life of their spines, joints, and bindings.
Bruce will be blogging with us quarterly. Check back soon for insights on book preservation, advances in conservation, and more. Visit him at Biblio.com or reach him via email at levybooks@email.com.
June 8th, 2011
